Friday, May 16, 2014

Photo dump, part 6: Tigray and the Danakil Depression

Going to these two places over six days in late April/early May was probably the coolest trip of my time in Ethiopia. I am maintaining the minimalist commentary because I have to give my (employer-provided) computer back in under two hours, but if you make one trip to Ethiopia, this should be a part of it.

Roll 1: Tigray, northern Ethiopia. Includes the monumental 4th-8th century stellae at the ancient capital of Axum, churches of Axum including that said to hold the Ark of the Covenant, shots of the Arizona-like Tigray landscape, Debre Damo monastery which is reached by climbing a rope up a cliff (the founding saint apparently climbed up the tail of a snake), stone churches of the Gheralta cluster notable for their inaccessibility (the path basically becomes a rock-climbing expedition) and ancient paintings:










Photo dump, part 5: Kilimanjaro and Oman

In which I dispense with individual photo captions in the service of trying to get this blog caught up with life.

Roll 1: Kilimanjaro, February 2014 -- includes our six day trek up and down the Marangu route (known as the "Coca-cola route" for its relative ease and comfort. Starts with views of Uhuru peak; followed by views on and from Uhuru peak; a group shot with our cook, 2 guides, and 7 porters; and couple pictures on the way out of the park...




Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Photo dump, part 4: Tanzanian safari, Wenchi, and Gonder

In my continuing quest to share with you an inadequate representation of my life only several months after I've lived it, below I have photos from 3 trips I took between late December and early February. At this point, I'm leaving Ethiopia in less than a week--for further travels in fact--so I'm kind of racing the clock to get caught up to present.

The first set of photos below were actually taken by my mother, and capture our family safari to two camps in southern Tanzania (Ruaha and Selous).

Below is a giant baobab tree. Elephants like to engage in tusk-play with the baobab's trunk:

And we saw plenty of elephants:

At center-left: Lion. At right: increasingly partial zebra carcass.

Wednesday, April 16, 2014

On "Public Intellectuals," the power of the internet, and the Bolivian quinoa boom

This blog has been almost entirely about my time in Addis, but today I feel compelled to post about another topic that has long been near and dear to my heart, "public intellectuals."

A recent Nick Kristof column has led to renewed discussion of whether this is a disappearing role in today's fragmented academy. At least a couple responses to Kristof's column assert--much more succinctly--what it took me 30,000 words to say in my senior thesis: namely that there is way to tell this story that centers as much on the media channels available and how they serve consumers of intellectual ideas as it does on the vocational pressures of the academy. And in that story, the disappearance of public intellectuals isn't nearly as clear cut.

So, here's development economist Chris Blattman making the case for the era of web-based public intellectuals. And here's the Chronicle of Higher Education making the case for TED specifically as a launching platform for a new breed of "academic celebrities" (who they seem to find equally un-academic as the old breed).

I can also add, for those with a lot of free time, that I have now made my senior thesis available online. Note however that this was not prompted by the dialogue mentioned above, but rather by a paper I stumbled across on the socio-economic impact of the Quinoa boom on Bolivian farmers--the tie here being that in the far reaches of the internet, even the most esoteric treatments of obscure subjects have someone out there interested in them.

And if you want to know why I'm suddenly reading up on the Bolivian Quinoa boom, an indication of the answer can be found here.

Thursday, April 03, 2014

Photo dump, part 3 (Dubai and the Seychelles)

These photos actually predate the previous set. They capture my September layover in Dubai and my October trip to the Seychelles, a paradisaical chain of islands northeast of Madagascar.

What might link these two places together is that, unlike Ethiopia, they are not the cheapest in the world. Dubai is a land of seven star hotels and world's largest malls, and food and accommodation in the Seychelles are priced in Euros for European honeymooners.

My 18-hour layover in Dubai included a trip up the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building:

Here are some views from the top:

Wednesday, March 05, 2014

Photo dump, part 2 (Harrar & Djibouti)

This past November, for two consecutive weekends, I flew northeast of Addis. The first weekend was to Harrar, an ancient, walled Muslim city known for its coffee and chat. The second weekend was to Djibouti, the world's hottest and funniest named country.

Below are some photos from these weekends.

I. Harrar

The inside of Harrar's walled city can be claustrophobic and difficult to capture. Most of the point of visiting is to soak in the atmosphere rather than any specific sites. We started our guided visit (there's no other easy way to find your way around) in a bustling marketplace:


The French poet Rimbaud spent a decade as a trader in Harrer, after he hung up his poetry gloves. He probably didn't live in this house, but it is nonetheless presented as "Rimbaud's house":



It was a hot day, perfect for a nice cold Coke:



Or for feeding birds of prey by throwing morsels of raw meat into the air:

Friday, February 07, 2014

A day in the life (Photo dump, part 1 of several)

Awhile ago (okay, probably six months) I took a set of photos that I thought could serve as a bit of a "day in the life" story. Consider this the first in a recurring series of what I've been up to. After these, the next few sets will mostly be travel shots.

And yes, I know there's usually Facebook for this sort of thing, but it's blocked from the only place here I can get good enough internet to upload these--the office after hours.


On this particular Saturday, I woke up and surveyed the view of lush rainy season Addis Ababa (and my drying pants) from my bedroom window...

I surveyed my spacious, sparsely furnished, and garishly-painted shared apartment...

And took a look back at our (totally unrepresentative for Addis) little apartment building before leaving for a (luckily also unrepresentative) Saturday morning in the office...

On the way, I saw the neighborhood trash collection going down...

And passsed by our local fruit stand...

On a quiet Saturday, you could feel like you were in a village in the back alleys of our neighborhood...

Thursday, February 06, 2014

Link dump

In response to several request (3 or 4 at least!), I’m going to be throwing some new content up onto this blog.

Given the gap since I last wrote, I think what makes the most sense here is a series of “content dumps.” So below are interesting pieces or links from the past few months on a few different themes.

Stay tuned as well for my “photo dump” and “thought dump.”

In the “readable” category:

In local news:


Interesting, academic, and not necessarily worth reading:


Flashy TED talks:

Friday, November 08, 2013

Nepal, contd.

I'm taking a brief break from my normal non-posting activity to pass along a description from Zev and Eliza of the second half of our Nepal trip (in which I get to be their engagement photographer!)

Monday, October 21, 2013

How I spent my vacation

So the last six weeks have been relatively eventful I guess. Among the things to catch you up on (my great mass of loyal readers you) are:

·         My weekend in Delhi -- a pleasant garden city, decades ahead and with a pulsing underground scene (all of this in comparison to Addis).
o   I relived Delhi memories including:
o   Indulging in my favorite regional Indian foods – particularly Goan and Bengali
o   Remembering the convenience of 1) metro travel and 2) autorickshaws
o   Re-noticing the amazing orderliness of the official quarter of central Delhi – block by orderly block of (decently) well-kept bungalows and impressive gardens
o   Observing (and taking advantage of) the remarkable degree to which the high-end lifestyle continues to develop in Delhi: new international brands for the country (Starbucks, Louis Philippe), a hip dj party in the middle of a rundown neighborhood—where women are afraid to be seen outside in their (moderate) club garb, a country house pool party where twenty-somethings are waited on by old servants bearing kebabs
o   Appreciating the kindness of Sonum as my guide for the weekend

·         Two weeks of trekking, hanging out, and eating well in Nepal, for which I can rely on the descriptive powers of my companions Zev and Eliza:
o   Kathmandu
o   (Further posts to come)

·         (A little less than) twenty-four hours in Dubai, an interesting setting in its own right, as well as a strange in-transit counterpoint between Kathmandu and Addis.
o   My excellent layover adventure included:
o   A morning swim in a four star hotel
o   A trip up the world’s tallest building where sand clouds obscure the horizon
o   Stocking up on much-needed electronics as well as delicate Parisian fare at perhaps fanciest mall I’ve ever been in
o   Zipping on the metro back up to the “old town”—mainly from the 1950’s, the museum in the restored fort touting modern Dubai’s ties to nomadic desert culture and values
o   A public boat taxi across the creek for a few dirhams
o   Strolling through the charmless “gold souk” in which an absurd flow of precious metals pass through rows of modern shops that each individually could be at home in a strip mall
o   A trip back to the airport with a Pakastani cab driver who thought my travel beard and American-ness meant I’d been in Afghanistan
o   My delight at finding bourbon in Dubai duty free
o   Enjoying a last meal in Dubai of a Big Mac extra value meal in the departure area
o   Getting a glimpse at global labor flows on my discount flight back to Addis, which was 95% women (Ethiopian domestic servants returning home) as compared to my flight in which was 90% male Nepalis heading to become construction workers

·         Another trip out of country (to be fair, I did work for a week in between :-)), this time for a long weekend in the Seychelles:
This one was less eventful per se, except to say that I enjoyed being in a beach paradise so perfect that Bacardi has used a Seychellois beach in its ads as an on-screen stand-in for the stereotypical pristine Caribbean paradise of sand and sun. (Also very good creole food – particularly the octopus curry)
·         The news of first the Westgate Mall attack in Nairobi and later an explosion in Addis in which two Somalis in a neighborhood near my own seem to have accidentally blown themselves up while constructing a bomb.
o   A few thoughts:
o   Most public safety news that I hear in Addis comes primarily through rumors – particularly as I can’t follow the real (i.e. Amharic) local news sources – but the accidental bomb blast notice came from the US Embassy as well
o   This follows on the heals on a report a couple months ago where a Sudanese news source claimed bombs had been disarmed in the Addis airport, as well as talk of crackdowns by public safety forces on the occasion of Eid-al-Fitr around the same time (Google it)
o   Meanwhile in DC though a crazy man was shooting up a naval complex and a crazy woman was running down police officers in her car -- to some degree these are risks that we run to live anywhere

So that’s been the last six weeks, more or less. Same old same old I guess.

For Nepal photos, Zev and Eliza should be able to provide. For the wonders of Dubai and the Seychelles, stay tuned and I’ll try to throw something your way.

Max